Mt Baker -Day 88 (Let's get technical)

"Let me get this straight. You want me to hang upside down with a thirty pound pack on my back. You remind me that I'm in a 200 foot deep crack within this giant ice cube hanging only by a 9 mm string around my waist. And then you want me to try to get out within 15 minutes or so before my hands freeze up and I eventually meet my maker." My life flashes before me and I recall my dear mother's early words-"Learn to be independent!" I doubt she had this in mind.

Mt Baker, as you probably know, is a heavily glaciated mountain with its share of obstacles en route to its peak. Crevasse fields are one of them. Recognizing this risk, I have integrated crevasse rescue skills into my preparation. Took a course given by Alpine Endeavors in the Catskills around 2 months ago. Quite an experience. Also bought the book "Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue by Andy Selters which explains in considerable detail what to do when I find myself in the above predicament. Actually, all teachings emphasize not so much the independence of the unfortunate climber. Rather, we spent a greater part of the course on how to rescue fellow climbers. I even went so far as to buy a nice DVD on the subject which goes over the role of each team member, the establishment of an anchored pulley system as well as the various hitches, knots, motions, etc that allow for a successful rescue. I still don't feel I have a complete grasp of the subject and will need some more training. My Mt Baker guide team, Alpine Ascents, understands this, however. Once we reach basecamp, we will spend time going over these actions once more before our summit climb. Different routes to the peak have different degrees of difficulty and different crevasse risks. I believe we are going the Easton glacier route which is, perhaps, the least treacherous. Fine with me. When my Alpine Endeavor instructor told me it was time for me to hang over the cliff on a 9 mm string, I very politely refused.