Mt Baker - Day 70-69 (Self - Arrest, cont)

As legend has it (at least by my vague unvalidated recollection), Mallory and his young climbing partner, Andrew Irvine, had chosen the North Face route to climb the Everest peak. Mallory had previously failed at this route on two separate occasions . He believed, however, that appropriate use of oxygen supplies would lead this time to here-to-fore never experienced success. The North Face route, for those of us who are not familiar, was a favorite of English mountaineers. It led through Tibet and in 1924, several decades before China gained control, was still open to foreigners. Mallory's choice of Irvine, a relatively inexperienced climber, as his expedition partner was considered a mistake by Mallory's more accomplished mountaineering partners. The 22 year old Irvine was chosen by our intrepid hero because of his skills at handling oxygen cannisters; this of major importance to Mallory. Also accompanying the two was Noel E. Odell; the latter chosen to stay at camps below the climbers, assure supplies, and monitor the progress of his two colleagues. As Odell was to later recount, Mallory and Irvine had successfully passed the Rongbuck ice fields, reached the North Cul, and continued passed the North East Ridge's first step. The second step on the North East ridge would prove to be the greatest challenge. The second step on the North East Ridge of Everest is about 80 feet high and, in a rock climber's, descriptive, a challenging 5.8 grade. For Mallory, an experience rock climber, it was certainly not insurmountable. He had performed rock climbs of similar difficulty in England without the advantage of assistance, including ropes and pitons. For Irvine, it was a different matter. His capacity to traverse the step was not to be realized.

As Odell was to recall, it was at the second step that the two climbers separated. According to Odell, Mallory cleared the step which left him only 800 feet below the top of the world. It was at that moment that the picture changed. Remember at this elevation, temperatures never climb above freezing. Snow never accumulates and remains a highly fine powder, easy to be displaced. Odell noted that a sudden gail force blew a snow cloud around the climbers, preventing all visibility. In a relatively brief period and with the clearing of the turbulent swirl, Odell noted that the climbers were no longer to be seen. His limited but frantic search provided no additional clues as to their whereabouts. Mallory and his young friend were gone forever.

Now what does this have to do with the description of self-arrest. The answer could be surmised from the events to follow. It could for purposes of this blog begin with the discovery of Mallory's ice axe in 1933.


The need for an ice axe and appropriate self-arrest techniques is reportedly critical at this part of the Everest summit. The ridge is narrow. The slope, nearly 45 degrees on both sides, is steep. The snow at 28 thousand feet on Mt Everest becomes a hazzard. Given that temperatures never reach above freezing, there is no opportunity for accumulation. The snow is free to blow with the wind, causing loss of vision in a gale, loose footing, as well as no resistance in stopping a fall or buffer to the underlying hazardous rocks.
(will have to continue later, time to cover our residents in the Head and Neck Surgical Clinic)